With Help From Paul (left)
We stumbled into a whole crop of thorny rough territory here. I made a few mistakes to be sure. A few mistakes in particular cost me time and effort to redo to my satisfaction. I decided to cover those mistakes in detail here on the blog. Horses and water come to mind. I had the information, and made mistakes anyway. Perhaps if I write about it I won’t make them twice. I invite you to make your own mistakes, but leave me out of it 🙂
Sorry for the delay between posts, and thanks everyone for looking at our site. We have been extremely busy getting ready to go. I am going to try to catch up over the next couple of days and bring the blog up to speed.
In this post We will take a quick look at the plywood top sheathe for our subfloor. We used 3/4 inch TnG plywood floor sheathing over the top of our very sturdy Subfloor Part 1 structure. We used PL400 subfloor glue liberally on every connection in the subfloor and now again we used a double bead of PL400 on top of every joist and brace. Quickly My wife and I carefully lifted and affixed the first piece of the sheathe, scraping and re-using the extra glue squeezed out as we screwed it down. The first sheet was a half-sheet and easy to place. The the middle 4 sheets were full 8×4, and required some muscle to lift into place without smearing the glue out. It also took several good whacks with “duck” my trusty rubber mallet to properly seat the Tongue and Groove. We were careful to leave the gap required by the mill, but used glue liberally on the underpart of the TnG seam. You may remember from The Subfloor Part 2 post that we used double blocking under each seam for a full 3 inches of support where the TnG joined.
Once all of the pieces were glued and screwed, we let the glue cure for a day then painted it teal blue, using yellow to mark seams and places where the paint didn’t cover fully. I was to wrapped up in the glue process to take many photos,
Here are some later photos showing the application of aluminum tape around the Edge of the floor, top and bottom. This tape was applied in two strips at each edge to protect the top edge of the plywood and cover the seam between the ledger board and the plywood, Then I used premium outdoor grade construction glue and staples to affix aluminum roll flashing around the entire floor edge. In Subfloor Road Guard we showed how we used 20 gauge galvanized steel to protect the bottom of the floor. Both serve to not only protect and seal the floor as well as make it real hard for critters to chew into it. We really don’t want water, rats or bugs in our floor… thanks anyway!
This last photo skips ahead a bit, but it clearly shows the aluminum flashing in place, which is what I needed.
In this post, we will look at the laborious process of insulating the floor. It took me a few days of work to get it finished properly. We chose solid core foam insulation by RMAX. After a lot of research and fumbling we discovered that solid core foam has one of the highest R-Values per cubic inch. It is also resistant to moisture and mold and is less attractive to pests then many other types of insulation. Continue reading
In this post will will look at one of the most tedious and difficult parts of the build to date: The Wheel Wells. Our trailer came without fenders. We used the 2′ x 4′ leftover pieces from our road guard build to make the pieces and I joined them to wooden framing and sealed with goop and aluminum tape. I also used Medium L Angles every few inches to reinforce the inner edge of the curve. Continue reading
In this post we will look at the fabrication and leveling of the cross braces in the sub floor assembly. With the long beams in place and held square to the ends by heavy supports, the warp in these long boards became pronounced in the middle. By carefully trimming the cross braces to exact length and levering them into position, then gently driving them into place with a rubber mallet. we were able to true up most of the more exaggerated warping and bring the joists mostly level. Continue reading
In this post we will take a look at the sub floor construction. We designed and built for maximum strength as our house is designed to be lifted off the trailer, if we so choose. With this in mind, we used a fairly serious amount of heavy hardware to anchor the sub-floor to the Foundation beams. This is a long post, so grab some refreshment and get cozy, or bookmark us and visit often! Continue reading
Whats in this post:
Installing a shield for deterring critters and road debris from invading our residence from beneath. We chose 20 gauge galvanized steel sheets
Because we desire to live in wild places where critters who eat wood abound, and to protect our home from road hazards while towing we chose to install a heavy Subfloor Sheathe. Continue reading